![]() ![]() It would shave 100 lbs off and give me twice the range, so it's an investment worth making. But since I like the final product so much my goal has always been to upgrade it to some Li-Ion or Ni-MHyd batteries as soon as the become commercially available. Honda recently announced a big push for electrification, pledging that it would be 100 electric by 2040, at which point it. More batteries mean more weight, less performance and lower efficiency. Honda announces four electric motorcycles to debut in next few years. Simply throwing more batteries into an electric motorcycle won’t work. Like Stryker I am using AGM sealed lead-acid batteries because of convenience. And the reason I’m coining this problem as a motorcycle problem is because electric cars are not so range limited thanks to the greater number of cells that they can carry. One big thing to consider when doing this is the finished product. Like Stryker (who built the 72 volt version) I live close to work so distance was not an issue, but speed and performance were, as I have over 3 miles of a rather steep curvy road to go home on. Here is a picture of the finished product. Shaft drives weigh a lot more and are not as efficient as chain drives, but they are maintenance free. I based mine on a '82 Yamaha turbo because 1) I have the ICE version (hence the spare), 2) I like that it is fully faired so it looks 'normal' and 3) it's a shaft drive and one of my main goal was to make it as maintenance free as possible. Like many others I decided to quit waiting for a decent electric road bike at a reasonable price, so I built one out of a spare bike I bought off eBay for about $700. ![]()
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